Putting The "Premium" into Premium Rum

By: Michael Delavante - Master Distiller

Columbus brought sugar cane to the West Indies and the extracted juice, fermented by wild yeast, may have been the first form of alcohol produced in the region even though the natives knew about the cultivation of maize, which was used in the "old world" to make alcohol. Distillation was introduced after the French and British brought pot stills to the islands in the 17th century.

In those days, as in many countries that produced spirits of any kind, fermentation and pot distillation systems were primitive and spirits could hardly be considered palatable by today's standards. Rum was known as Kill-Devil or Rumbullion and it was consumed for the purpose of debauchery, warding off evil spirits and as a medicinal cure.

Over the years fermentation methods improved and pure culture yeast was used to ferment molasses (or a combination of molasses and cane juice) in a controlled environment. The modern Jamaican pot still was introduced and it produced a distillate from a single distillation that possessed a fine bouquet and taste. Cognac, Scotch, Bourbon and Irish whiskies required 2 or 3 distillations in a single pot still. This unique still may have been used at Appleton Estate as early as 1749. The Coffey (continuous) still, invented in 1830, was introduced to Jamaica around 1950 and it afforded the opportunity to produce the "blended" spirits. The art of blending and aging distillates then developed and this gave rise to the concept of premium rums.

Aging gives the distillate its vanilla, honey and woody tastes that are derived from the effect of the charred oak barrels on the many organic compounds (cogeners) in the distillate. The Jamaican standard of identity for rum does not permit the addition of flavours; they are developed during the production process. These are retained in a pot still distillate (to a lesser extent in continuous stills) and enhanced by the aging process. Colour is also derived from the barrel and/or the addition of caramel - burnt sugar.

Appleton brands are aged between 5 and 15 years in a tropical environment and there is one brand where the minimum age of any component actually exceeds 21 years in wood. They are referred to as ESTATE RUMS since they contain distillates that are made in copper pot stills that date back to the 18th century. Like Scotch and Canadian whiskies, the age claim represents the age of the youngest component in the blend.

Connoisseurs are now appreciating the attributes of premium rums and enjoying them in the same fashion as the finest Cognacs, Malt Whiskies or liqueurs. The lighter rums are mixable and enjoyed wit